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If you have a permanent base of ops,

then you are going to need more than the oft discussed carpentry tools.

Think mechanical tools and fluids,

To include a well dressed tool chest english and the dreaded metric, along with dressing equip such as files, grinding wheels, and emery cloths.

Fluids to include grease, light and heavy oils for lubricants, and gas products.
Light oils for engines, heavy oils for gear lubes, running gear, etc. Also will be a need for cleaning solvents.

They will not only be great everyday items, but will be most useful for bartering.

Light oils also include the vegetable oil types.

There are bio-diesel generators that are setup for the everyday guy. A company out of Iowa has a unit that can make you self-sufficient for a low input cost. Then you just run a used oil collection route to keep ya going. Has the capacity to make yours + have some for sell off if you don't use large amounts of fuel.

Scorp

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I hide my todo list where my wife can't find it. She likes to add to it for me when I'm not looking.

I need to add some fluids to my list of things to stock up on. :coolbeer: I'm short on diesel and oil, have lots of grease.

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I know when I was working as an apprentice machinist we used to use a couple different drilling and tapping lubricants. One of them was basically kerosene and another was more or less a cisco type lard. From what I can remember we used the kero on aluminum and the lard for general carbon steel. The lard had a pretty foul odor when it smoked as you were power tapping or drilling but it worked real well. The kero worked ok but was almost too thin and somewhat sloppy. I remember using used motor oil on certain things as well.

In a pinch these might get you from having to store multiple cutting fluids. Keep the "cool tool" ("cool tool" was a brand name from what I remember) type commerical cutting fluids for when it is really needed and stick with the dual purpose lard, kero, used or new motor oil for most everything else.

As for a commercial cleaning solvent, you have to use your head and be smart about it but mineral spirits and gasoline work really well. Not sure about long term skin exposure so take that into consideration.

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I always thought too that if a man had a milling machine, small engine lathe, buzz box type mig welder, machinist tool and the know how to use them....they would be a very valuable contact in hard times. Granted you need electric and it would be a great idea to convert everything over to 220 volt. Those skills will be in high demand and are great for a barter ecomony if you can get material.

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I store quite a bit of fuels and lubes......motor oil I buy in a 55gal barrel at the local Exxon dealer, then have a small hand pump on top the barrel to pump out what I need. Also keep trans/hydraulic oil for the tractor + antifreeze + lots of filters for everything.

Also, a biggie.....2 cycle oil for chainsaws.....THAT will be one heck of a required item down the road. I buy Sthil oil by the case.

One of my "down the road" projects is one of those low speed Lister type diesel for electric generation.

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Lt Dan, I find your Wife stories very amusing.
:rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

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More cost effective to run 100% synthetics and change filters.

How much fuel are you storing? Maybe Andy has a few buried fuel tanks but EPA raises hell about those these days. Where you gonna be driving to when TSHTF? Just how much driving and eqpt operating are you planning to do?

Fuel stabilizers and restorative treatments are a good idea. PRI D/G for diesel or gasoline are acclaimed to be very effective. Sta-bil works okay. There are other industrial stabilizers. Got the red de-icer stuff? It will work on gasoline in two stroke ATVs. The best 2stroke mix value is Castrol snowmachine oil. A quart for $3 has the highest rating. Maybe you like Amsoil or synthetic for your chainsaw or ATV?

Propane stores indefinitely.

I would have/do have a full selection of files and chisels, drill bits including a # and alphabet set, diamond hones in various colors/grits, arkansas stones, carborundums, chainsaw files. Have lived "in the country" since 1990. When you are an hour from town, you learn to do for yourself. Don't forget a good vise or other workholding facility. The various ceramic hones with angle jigs for keeping blade angles are worth their cost since they save you time and money by preserving your edges.

About the best value in a homestead tool is probably the ubiquitous Bow Saw. A 30", 36" or 48" bow saw will enable you to process a downed tree very ably. Cost about $10 and $4 for a spare blade. Nice to have axes etc, but a bow saw is faster and quiet. If you have a SawzAll don't forget the short metal cutting blades At $2ea they are a steal. The 10" wood/demolition blades will do a whole lot more than just tear through wall studs. If you ever have to cut notches for a log building project or timber framed structure, you'll want lots of these. Way easier than using a chainsaw or circular saw.

Don't forget The Handyman's Friend...